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  • Pros' tips for installing grab bars

    Never rip them out of the wall again

    Bill and Kevin Burnett
    Inman News®

    Q: As my parents have gotten older, they have begun asking one of the towel bars in their bathroom to do double duty -- as a grab bar. You can probably guess what happened. Last week my dad, who is not a small man, used the towel bar for an assist off the commode. The result was a dangling towel bar and a nice quarter-size hole where the screw used to be.

    I have two questions: How do I fix the hole in the drywall, and what's the best way to install a grab bar to make sure it stays put?

    A: While properly installed grab bars can do double duty as towel bars, it doesn't work the other way around. Even the best towel bars just aren't beefy enough. Also, they generally aren't fastened to a stud -- wall anchors are usually the preferred hardware.

    We'd bet that this is the case with your folks' towel bar. After years of use -- and a healthy assist from your dad -- it was bound to come loose. The solution is to provide a solid backing for the screws.

    Here's how:

    1. Use a utility knife to cut a 6-inch-square piece of drywall from the damaged part of the wall. Make sure the failed screw holes are in the center of this piece. Try to make a clean cut because you will save this piece and replace it once the wood backing is installed. Don't worry if the piece you remove is too badly damaged. Worst case, you'll have to head down to the big-box store to buy a half sheet or beg a small piece from some damaged goods.

    2. Once you have a hole in the wall, cut a piece of scrap wood a little wider than but not as long, as the 6-inch-square opening. An 8-inch-by-5-inch piece of 1/2-inch plywood will do.

    3. Drill a small hole in the center of the wood and thread a string through it. Knot the string or tie a nail or metal washer to it so that the string can't be pulled out.

    4. Once this backing is prepared, apply construction adhesive around the edges of the plywood and, using the string, pull it securely against the back of the wall.

    5. While holding the backing in place, drill a couple of pilot holes through the wallboard and into the plywood. Then secure with 1-inch drywall screws, making sure they are countersunk. While it's possible to do this by yourself, a helper will make things go more smoothly.

    6. After the construction adhesive dries -- 24 hours to be safe -- glue the piece of drywall you saved to the plywood backing.

    7. Tape the joints with drywall tape and finish the patch with joint compound. It will take at least three coats of joint compound to properly finish the job.

    8. Sand, texture to match and paint.

    We realize that this seems like a lot of steps and a lot of time waiting for glue, joint compound and paint to dry, but if you fix it this way, no one will ever have to fix it again -- providing it's not used as a grab bar.

    When installing grab bars we have three words for you: Find a stud. Grab bars, whether attached to drywall or a tiled tub and shower, need to be rock solid. We've seen them installed with metal toggle bolts, and although they seem sturdy enough, we just don't trust them.

    Bill has just finished a total bathroom remodel, and since he's not getting any younger, grab bars are part of the design. Because all his walls will be open, the job will be easy. His plan calls for 2-by-8-inch blocking between the studs around the entire room, beginning at 30 inches from the floor. That way, when the drywall is up and the tile is in and grouted, he can place the grab bars just about any place he wants and be sure of hitting solid backing.

    If we were in your shoes, we wouldn't want to open up the walls. If the grab bar doesn't hit studs on both ends, we suggest that you angle it upward so that the fastening points are 16, 32 or 48 inches apart. (Remember, in standard construction, studs are 16 inches from center to center.) Plumb and level isn't important. It's all about safety.

    Finally, you should know that grab bars should be part of every friendly house, and they don't have to shout "hospital" or "nursing home." Here are the ones that Bill has ordered: Gatco 851 Latitude II 12-inch grab bars.

                                         
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  • Home staging on a budget

    Know which items to pack away and when to leave the shower curtain open

    Tom Kelly
    Inman News®

    I mentioned "home staging" to a single dad who asked about selling his home this spring. The rest of the men in the group looked at me as if I were from Mars.

    "That's great for the high rollers -- the white wine and brie set," one of them said. "But what about people who serve hamburgers and beer, and not watercress sandwiches?"

    Home staging is not reserved for the rich -- or for creative women. In fact, cleaning and clearing clutters are the two primary items on Pam Christensen's Inexpensive Staging Tips list for any market. And, guys, it doesn't take a genius woman to help you through the other tips on the list.

    Christensen, founder and owner of Staging for Charisma LLC, said guys often forget that they are selling their space, not their stuff.

    "There are some staging tips that apply no matter where you live," said Christensen, a licensed real estate instructor and certified staging trainer. "Some tips apply more if you are living on the East Coast than on the West Coast."

    Guys, if you're thinking of selling your house or condo this spring, now is the time to prepare your home for sale. Why now? Well, it's the traditional selling season, which means that in most communities, recorded residence transfers are at a peak during June and July. Most of those sales are actually made 30 to 60 days earlier, and it takes time to complete the transaction. Think about the academic year. Many deals are made when the kids are in school, and moves are made when they get out.

    What's the best way to make a deal happen? A fresh coat of paint, inside and outside, will do wonders to make your residence show its best and make buyers want to purchase it. If your home looks tired, prospective buyers either won't make a purchase offer or they will highly discount it to allow for the fix-up costs, especially painting. Most buyers want to purchase a residence in model-home condition, so all they have to do is turn the key in the front door and move in.

    "White is out, designer neutrals are in," Christensen said. "So what the heck is a designer neutral? Beige, but if you're not careful, that beautiful beige that looked so fabulous on the brochure could look pink on your wall. Warm beiges like Sherwin Williams Practical Beige and Kilim Beige are some of my favorites."

    Christensen's other cheap staging tips:

    Curb appeal is not dead: OK, nine times out of 10, the first impression of the home is the Internet, but that doesn't mean that curb appeal is out of vogue. The contrast between the chocolate brown bark and the bright green grass makes a striking first impression.

    How to get rid of it: It's time to give away the purple cookie jar that you got from Aunt Mary for your 18th birthday, and anything else that you have been saving just in case you might need it someday. Divide everything into three stacks: The purple cookie jar and other things that you never use go directly to the garage sale or Goodwill. The second stack is the things you use but rarely, or they are seasonal and you won't need them while you are on the market. These are packed and stored. What's left can go back into the closets. Will people really look in the closets? Only if they want to buy the home.

    Counter patrol: Small appliances like toasters can go into a cupboard. If you have an espresso machine and a coffee pot, choose which one you use the most and tuck the other away.

    Bathroom essentials: For toiletries, buy a plastic tote that can come out in the morning and evening and be easily tucked under the sink during the day. Keep no more than one shampoo, one conditioner and one liquid soap in the tub or shower.

    And what about that shower curtain? Open or closed? If you have just invested in a new tile tub surround, leave the shower curtain open to show it off.

    Say welcome home: Buy a new, tasteful welcome mat for the front entry. It's best if it says "welcome." Adding a pot of blooming annuals by the front door if there's space also creates a friendly atmosphere.

    Mirror, mirror on the wall: Place one in the entry or in one of the main living rooms. Mirrors help buyers see themselves in the home. They also help to make the room look larger and lighter. Check the reflection. Make sure you aren't reflecting a view that is less than attractive.

    Less is more: You've heard it before, but it is really true. When staging a room in a home for sale, a few well-placed pieces of furniture are all that's needed to show the room at its best.

    Tom Kelly's new e-book, "Bargains Beyond the Border: Get Past the Blood and Drugs: Mexico's Lower Cost of Living Can Avert a Tearful Retirement," is available online at Apple's iBookstore, Amazon.com, Sony's Reader Store, Barnes & Noble, Kobo, Diesel eBook Store, and Google Editions. 

                                             
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  • Renters complicate condo financing

    Fannie, Freddie, FHA spooked by association foreclosures

    Benny Kass
    Inman News®

    DEAR BENNY: Four years ago I bought the cheapest condo in town, intending to buy a house soon. However, I learned that our complex doesn't qualify for mortgages that Fannie Mae would repurchase because landlords own more than half of the units in the complex.

    How much more does a purchaser pay for a mortgage that doesn't qualify for repurchase by Fannie Mae?

    What can we do to change our rules to make owner-occupancy go over 50 percent since landlords own the majority of units now? --Russel

    DEAR RUSSEL: Many associations throughout the country are facing this exact problem. Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac and especially the Federal Housing Administration (FHA) have been so "spooked" by the number of association foreclosures -- especially in California, Nevada and Florida -- that they all have tightened up the qualifications one needs to buy (or refinance) a unit in a community association.

    But it's not only about the number of investor-owners, although that's one of the issues. If there are too many delinquencies, or if the reserves are too low, that would also disqualify the entire association from being eligible for such loans.

    And to add insult to injury, spot loans are no longer available. A spot loan was a loan made to an individual condo owner, based on the credit worthiness of that owner and not on the status of the association. Now, however, unless the association is approved by FHA, for example, individuals will not get an FHA-insured loan.

    I am concentrating on FHA because that has become the primary source of funding for loans to individual community association borrowers.

    If you cannot get a loan backed by the secondary mortgage market, you will probably pay a quarter to a half an interest point higher. But more significantly, your down payment will be high, perhaps 10 to 20 percent of the purchase price.

    What can your association do? There are professional companies that assist in attempting to get FHA approval. You can get some names from the Virginia-based Community Associations Institute online at www.caionline.org.

    Many associations are attempting to deal with the high level of investor units, because if there is more than 50-60 percent in your association, it won't pass muster with those secondary financing agencies. The board cannot merely enact a rule prohibiting rentals (or putting a cap on the number of rentals).

    The safest route (which has been approved by several courts around the country) is to amend your highest legal document (in a condo, that's the declaration; in a homeowners association, they call it the CC&Rs (covenants, conditions and restrictions).

    How, you will ask, can we convince current investor-owners to vote for a restriction on rentals? Simple: The amendment will grandfather those investors so long as they remain owners. The investors should understand that if and when they ultimately want to sell their units, their potential buyers may not be able to get financing based on FHA standards and requirements.

    But you must talk with your association's legal counsel to make sure you are going down the right path.

    DEAR BENNY: I have a question regarding the master policy. We are a condo community with 27 freestanding units. When a claim is made on the master policy, who is responsible for the deductible amount required on a claim for only one unit? --Jim

    DEAR JIM: From my experience, the deductible is usually considered a common expense. That means that even if there is a claim for only one unit -- and even if that unit owner's negligence was the cause of the claim -- all of the owners have to pay the deductible.

    Typically, this is specifically spelled out in the declaration or the bylaws of the condominium. Usual language: "the insurance deductible is a common expense."

    That doesn't mean it cannot be changed. Many of the condo associations that I represent in the Washington, D.C., area have amended this language to impose what we call "strict liability." If the problem arises in a unit, regardless of fault, the unit owner has to pay the deductible.

    And, if the unit owner has his/her own condo insurance coverage (called an "HO-6" policy), that policy will pay the bulk of the deductible -- minus, of course, the deductible for the HO-6 policy.

    Let's give an example: The typical deductible for a master insurance policy is between $5,000 and $10,000. If there is a fire in a unit (or if a washing machine hose bursts) causing major damage throughout the complex, the unit owner will have to pay the deductible. But his HO-6 policy has a small deductible -- usually no more than $500. So, the HO-6 pays most of the master deductible and the owner pays no more than $500. A win-win for all.

    Keep in mind that the master policy covers common-element damage, but will pay for repairs to the walls and ceilings of a unit. However, the master policy will not pay for damage to an individual unit, nor will it cover theft or fire of your personal belongings. In fact, many master policies will refuse to pay for what is known as "betterments," i.e., new flooring, an upgraded kitchen. This is even more reason to have the HO-6 policy.

    But, two caveats: I strongly recommend that every condo owner obtain an HO-6 policy. If possible, I would like to see a bylaw requirement to this effect.

    Second, the condo will have to amend its legal documents to change the deductible requirement. This will require a supermajority vote, either a two-thirds or three-fourths vote. That means that the board will have to mount an educational campaign to explain why such an amendment is beneficial for all owners.

    DEAR BENNY: How can a homeowners association change its status from nonmandatory, making it a mandatory association?

    There are roughly 497 lots in our subdivision, and approximately 95 percent of these lots have already been built on. The people who are members of our association would like to change the association from nonmandatory to mandatory, making every property owner a member of our association.

    Our annual dues are $30. This low cost of the membership is because the work is done by the members of the association.

    What is the procedure for making our association mandatory so that every property owner would be required to join the association?

    Every time this comes up at our semiannual meetings no one seems to have the answer. Would it require a certain percentage of the property owners to agree to this change? Each property owner receives notification on where and when the semiannual meetings will be held together with the proposed agenda of the meeting.

    If you can't give us an answer to this question, perhaps you can advise us on where we can get a legal answer. --Kay

    DEAR KAY: Jim Slaughter, a North Carolina attorney, fellow member of the College of Community Association Lawyers, and friend of mine, gave me this response:

    "Generally, we see voluntary associations become mandatory planned communities through the preparation of a declaration/restrictive covenants with language to create a community association (an obligation that runs with the property, creates an association, requires payment of common assessments to pay for common property expenses) signed by members who wish to belong.

    "The incentive for owners to sign is typically loss of any prior services if they don't (join), which might include a pool, clubhouse, tennis courts, landscaping, cable, Wi-Fi, or even water from a community system. In situations where there are few services provided, it may be difficult to get owners to consent to such restrictions."

    Bottom line: There is no magic bullet. You need an attorney to draft the legal documents that would create a mandatory association. Then, you have to mount a good old-fashioned "political campaign," just as if you were running for office. Get a committee of interested owners who will go from door to door asking owners to sign up.

    You cannot force owners to join. But, as Jim points out, make sure they understand that failure to join may deprive them of association benefits.

    The Community Associations Institute (CAI) is a trade association composed of community associations, property managers, attorneys and others involved with such associations. You should contact them for assistance, including suggestions for attorneys in your area, online at www.caionline.org.

    Benny L. Kass is a practicing attorney in Washington, D.C., and Maryland. No legal relationship is created by this column. Questions for this column can be submitted to benny@inman.com.

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  • 3 ways to turn your 'quirks' into strengths

    Book Review: 'Better Than Normal: How What Makes You Different Can Make You Exceptional'

    Tara-Nicholle Nelson
    Inman News®

    Book Review
    Title: "Better Than Normal: How What Makes You Different Can Make You Exceptional"
    Author: Dr. Dale Archer
    Publisher: Crown Archetype, 2012: 256 pages; $25

    Recently, I asked some people in my circle what they most want to change in their lives. One young real estate agent expressed the following:

    "I tend to think people see me as weak when I am strong, dumb when I am smart, hard when I am soft (or vice versa). I find myself thinking that people see me as a 'little girl' in the big world of business, so I fear I am not always taken seriously."

    We had a one-on-one exchange in which we talked about our respective experiences with the temptation to act like someone or something else in an effort to be taken more seriously. I'd certainly gone through that as a very young attorney and real estate broker. And part of what I told her was this:

    "Acting older got me taken seriously, when I was very young. But once I was, I gradually began to grow more and more comfortable being myself, being real about what I love to do (and not so much) and what I'm particularly great at (and less so), and it turned out that that got me way further in business and in life. It helped me connect with and move people in a way I couldn't when I felt pressured to play a role."

    And this same battle with who we are takes place outside of the workplace as well. I've even seen real estate buyers and sellers across the spectrum. Some plain old catered to their own learning styles and decision-making quirks to great effect. And others chose to pose as having more negotiating savvy or a better understanding of the process than they really did, and paid the price.

    In his new book, "Better Than Normal: How What Makes You Different Can Make You Exceptional," Dr. Dale Archer, a board-certified psychiatrist, makes the case that owning and leaning into your quirks -- rather than resisting or trying to "cure" them -- can be a strategy for achieving excellence in every realm of your life. Here are a few of Archer's suggestions for taking advantage of our natural personality traits and harnessing them to the best possible effect, in every area of our lives:

    1. Stop stigmatizing your normal human qualities. Archer argues that the traits that have been given psychomedical diagnostic labels, such as obsessive-compulsive disorder, attention deficit disorder (ADD) and bipolar disorder, exist in every one of us, to a greater or lesser degree. He points out that these diagnoses used to be applied only to cases in which people were severely debilitated by their extremes of these traits, and expresses his concern with the trend for pathologizing, diagnosing and medicating people who may have some dominant traits that cause them some challenges, but fail to truly reach the level of a mental health disorder.

    Archer makes the case that instead of looking at these traits as either present or not, on or off, we should understand where our own personalities tend to fall along these spectrums and figure out whether there might actually be some advantages to our dominant traits that we can harness to live our best lives.

    2. Turn your trait around. Or at least turn around how you think of it. Archer offers a framework for understanding eight dominant traits that are frequently incorrectly pathologized from the angle of the opportunities and strengths each trait creates. For each, he offers a way to rethink and redefine the trait, being careful to caution that people at the extreme of each trait's spectrum may actually have a legitimate mental health problem that requires treatment. He then provides a list of ascendant, possibly overlooked strengths the trait often accompanies, and provides some life guidelines for selecting a career and managing your personal life optimally if you have the dominant trait.

    For example, people halfway on the spectrum that ends in attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD) are highly energetic, playful, nonconformists who think independently and have adventurous spirits, in Archer's taxonomy. By the same token, people who have mood and focus swings of a lesser degree but on the same spectrum as bipolar disorder are sometimes called hypomanic; if harnessed and managed appropriately, this trait can translate to a high-energy life.

    3. Design your life around your dominant traits. Archer's most useful insight in "Better Than Normal" is that harnessing the strengths of our sometimes-troubling dominant traits may require us to do more than just looking at them differently. For each trait spectrum, Archer offers recommendations for how to make relationship, lifestyle and career choices that will work well with your dominant traits.

    To wit, people who have dominant traits on the ADHD continuum may find them to be a liability in rigorous hierarchies or corporate jobs, and more of a strength in entrepreneurial or self-directed career paths. On the other hand, people with traits on the generalized anxiety disorder continuum can harness their traits to be impeccable at complex planning and troubleshooting, perform well under pressure, and meet the deadlines of a fast-paced, high-stakes career.

    People with hypomanic swings -- from energetic to restful -- may do well if they can focus their energy bursts into productive careers as writers and inventors.

    Some might find this book to oversimplify complex mental health issues, but I found Archer's approach to be educated and respectful of legitimate disorders while calling out the medical establishment and our cultural zeitgeist of overdiagnosis and overmedication. Many readers will find themselves described in one or more of Archer's dominant trait categories, and will find his rethinking of what they might have always seen as their weaknesses to be an empowering and refreshing new approach to improving their lives.

    Tara-Nicholle Nelson is author of "The Savvy Woman's Homebuying Handbook" and "Trillion Dollar Women: Use Your Power to Make Buying and Remodeling Decisions." Tara is also the Consumer Ambassador and Educator for real estate listings search site Trulia.com. Ask her a real estate question online or visit her website, www.rethinkrealestate.com.

                                                       
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  • Homeowners fined $7K for backyard apartment

    Are previous seller, inspector liable for failing to disclose unpermitted addition?

    Barry Stone
    Inman News®

    DEAR BARRY: We bought our home seven years ago. Recently, the county building department informed us that the studio apartment in our backyard was built without a permit. Neither the sellers nor our home inspector informed us about this, and we are now forced to spend more than $7,000 in retroactive permits and fines to fix something we did not do and were not made aware of. Is this something that we should be liable for, or should we hire a lawyer? --Ann

    DEAR ANN: If the sellers owned the property when the structure was built, they should have disclosed the lack of a building permit. Whether they are still liable after seven years is something you'll need to find out from an attorney.

    Home inspectors do not check for permits. However, if the studio was included in the home inspection, your inspector should have noted conditions that were substandard.

    It is reasonable for the building department to require a retroactive permit, but it is not right for it to impose a fine, since you were not the one who broke the law. To address that issue, you should hire an attorney. You should also make an appointment to meet with one of your elected officials, such as a county supervisor, to complain about the unfair fine. Elected officials can sometimes cut through the dogma imposed by narrow-thinking bureaucrats.

    DEAR BARRY: We bought our home a few months ago, and there was no disclosure of any roof problem, not from the sellers or our home inspector. But when the first rain came, there were several bad leaks, so we called a roofing contractor. He said the roof is totally worn out, and replacement will cost thousands of dollars. We believe the sellers were aware of the leaking and that our home inspector should have reported the true condition of the roof. What can we do? --Renee

    DEAR RENEE: The home inspector should come back to the property to explain why the condition of the roof was not properly reported. If possible, you should go onto the roof with him to see exactly what defects the roofer found. If the condition of the roof is not consistent with the inspection report, the inspector should take some responsibility for this breach. If he is unwilling to do so, find out if he is insured for errors and omissions.

    If the sellers say there was no previous leakage, proving them wrong could be difficult, depending on how badly the roof is deteriorated. Another possibility is to ask your neighbors if the seller ever mentioned roof leaks.

    DEAR BARRY: My husband and I have a disagreement about fire safety requirements in a garage. Our home has a finished basement garage with living space above. What is required for the walls and ceiling in this garage? --Shari

    DEAR SHARI: The wall and ceiling areas that separate the garage from living space or from the crawl space should be covered with 5/8-inch, fire-rated drywall, and all seams should be taped. Doors and utility access covers should be fire-rated and self-closing, and ducts that penetrate the drywall should be fire-rated material, such as metal.

    It would be interesting to know who is on which side of the disagreement.

    To write to Barry Stone, please visit him on the Web at www.housedetective.com.

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